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When you reach for a can of food from
your kitchen cabinet, do you ever think about all of the hands and
places it’s been through on its journey to your home? This is
exactly what I found myself thinking about one night when I grabbed
our last jar of home-canned, summer tomatoes. While admiring that
jar of diced gems, I thought about Bonnie, our good friend who
lovingly grew these tomatoes and much of the other food that helped
sustain our family through the winter. On one of her many trips to
stay with us, she brought an enormous quantity of tomatoes. I canned
those red beauties two days later. During their entire existence,
those tomatoes probably saw only our four hands.
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Photo by Pete
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As I held the jar, I
also thought about Bonnie’s farm. I remembered my days and nights on
her farm within a forest. I remembered waking to the sounds of
woodpeckers and nuthatches and watching deer nibble grass in the
evening hours. Flying squirrels, a run of salmon, owls, and myriad
other creatures know her farm as home. Bonnie farms with all of
these creatures in mind, so she never uses harmful synthetic
chemicals. Her farming practices help to unveil and revitalize the
gifts of the natural world (e.g., applying rich layers of compost,
letting natural insect predators do their work) rather than degrade
and deplete them. In my reflective moment, that jar of tomatoes
symbolized the love that Bonnie has for her vocation as a farmer,
for her vibrant farm, for the creatures that live on her farm, for
her own family, and for friends like us.
In popping open
that jar, I realized that this would be the last time, at least for
a while, that we would have a deep sense of who raised our tomatoes
or where they grew. A tinge of sadness came over me, then a flood of
questions: When it comes time for me to actually buy my next cans of
tomatoes, how can I be sure that the farmer who grew them felt good
about the work that she or he was doing? How will I know that they valued the health of the larger ecosystem of which the farm was a
part? Would they use toxic chemicals that could harm the
natural world, farm workers, and possibly my own family? Bonnie and
I deeply love God’s creation — how would I know that the other farmers
did? Would they treat their employees in a Christ-like manner: with
respect and dignity? Would the mass production of tomatoes for
canning take the place of cultivating important food staples in
other parts of the world? This cascade of questions made me wish
that our pantry might be filled, once again, with colorful jars of Bonnie’s gifts.

This moment of reflection made me realize that a certain irony
exists in the act of receiving “our daily bread.” On the one hand,
eating is one of the most intimate acts we engage in, several times
a day; on the other hand it can be one of the most disembodied and
disengaged acts. When we eat, we take sunlight, water, other lives,
and other people’s labor into our very bodies. These gifts become
part of our tissue, bones, and being.
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We are what we eat in a very
real, physical sense. And with the eucharist being one of our
faith’s most defining and emblematic experiences, we are what we eat
in a very real, spiritual sense as well. Somehow through the act of
eating, we come to know our Sustainer better. The psalmists urge us
to “Taste and see that the Lord is good” (Psalm 34:8). Somehow,
eating also can bring us into more intimate communion with fellow
“eaters.” Food seems so central to our most important life
experiences. Just think of a wedding, birthday, funeral, Christmas
celebration, or gathering with family and friends without food.
Farmer, poet, and author Wendell Berry aptly summed up the physical,
spiritual, and communal significance of food when he said, “we are
all living from mystery, from creatures we did not make and powers
we can’t comprehend.”
Let’s look now at “the other hand”: Eating can be one of our most
disengaged activities. I say this with the knowledge that, on
average, our food in the United States travels 1,300 miles from farm
to table. In addition, it changes hands at least six times along the
way. Our vast distance from the people and lands that provide us
with our daily bread means that all sorts of injustices can occur
along the way – without our ever knowing. We’re left with questions
like those that occurred to me during my reflection over the jar of
tomatoes.
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Perform a corporate check up. If you want to know more about
the corporations behind the food brands that you purchase, you
can “profile” many of them online. Visit
Internet Café for the
“responsible shopper” web link. This resource will help you to
discover “the good, the bad, and the ugly” corporate players
and help you to discern whether or not you wish to support
them with your food dollars.
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Unlike the food that Bonnie grows for my
family, most food production in our country is controlled by large
corporations. For example, Philip Morris Companies Inc. (recently
renamed “Altria Group Inc.”) is a powerful tobacco corporation that
also owns Kraft, Nabisco, General Foods, Miller Brewing, and many
other major food brands and production and retail services. It is
the second most powerful food and beverage company in the world
(source: Food Engineering, October 2000; Nestle is number one).
Let’s look behind this powerful exterior.
The Multinational Monitor named Philip Morris one of the “10 Worst
Corporations of 2001” because of its environmental, human rights
(for example, Nabisco would not let female employees in Oxnard,
California take bathroom breaks), health and safety, and other
abuses. Other corporations are equally as powerful, and their
practices are just as elusive to most consumers. Today, three
corporate conglomerates — ConAgra/DuPont, Cargill/Monsanto, and
Novartis/ADM — dominate virtually every link in the North American
(and increasingly, the global) food chain (source: WorldWatch,
September/October 2000). They own the vast majority of seed, farm
machinery, and chemical producers; farmland; grain and livestock
collection and processing; and even supermarkets. I find it very
troubling that these conglomerates have so much power over the foods
I take into my very body. And yet, they are strangers to me —
strangers who benefit greatly from my food dollars and my ignorance
as a consumer.
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Consider replacing one beef meal each week. Meat production
greatly impacts creation. Check out this quick fact: Livestock
currently consume 70 percent of America’s grain production.
Feedlot beef is particularly wasteful. For every 1,000 of us
who give up one beef meal each week, we save over 70,000
pounds of grain, 70,000 pounds of topsoil and 40 million
gallons of water per year! (Excerpted from the Center for a
New American Dream. Check out their complete site at
Internet
Café under the New American Dream listing.)
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In contrast to small family farms, such corporations seldom care
about the long-term health of the lands they use (lands in the
United States and all over the world – especially valuable farmland
in less-industrialized countries); the well-being of their farmers,
farm-workers, animals, packers, processors, retailers, etc.; or the
physical health of their consumers.
(They are most concerned about their
“bottom lines”— how much money they can amass for the least input
cost (e.g., worker compensation and safety, land stewardship). Most
small farmers cannot compete with such cost-cutting giants and have
had to play a game of “get big or get out” since the end of World
War II. (Today, there are fewer full-time farmers than there are
full-time prisoners.)
The vast majority of farmers who remain on the land work under
strict contracts with the large corporations. These farmers
typically receive less than 7 cents for each dollar we pay for the
food they grow.
Furthermore, farm workers typically receive less than 4 cents of our
food dollars, and the land itself typically sees nothing in the way
of dollars spent on conservation.

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Photo by Jim
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This distance from the source of our daily bread — and all of the
injustices that this distance perpetuates — is not inevitable. Lanza
del Vasto, a Christian disciple of Gandhi, said that if we want to
make our eating more just and sustainable, we needed to “find the shortest, simplest way between the earth, the hands, and the mouth.”
We can rebuild healthy direct relationships between ourselves and
the people and lands that feed us. And in doing so we help keep our
remaining small farmers — who are most skilled at land stewardship — on
their farms. Here are a few practical ways to rebuild these
essential relationships and foster a more life-giving food
system — please consider practicing one or more of them. (Note: All
suggestions below have links in Internet Café. Visit that section of
this issue to connect to the sites for more detailed information and
ideas.)
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In addition to
the individual actions presented here and the ones you may
discuss as you talk about this topic with your friends, you may
want to consider joining with others to voice your concerns
about the people, lands, and creatures impacted by our current
food system. The Union of Concerned Scientists provides
updated, easy-to-use “action alerts” to help you voice support
for ecologically, socially, and economical sound agriculture. Connect with the organization via their web link in
Internet
Café under the listing Concerned Scientists. |
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Try growing some of your own food,
even if it’s a single tomato plant or a couple square feet of salad
greens. This will reduce your reliance on our corporation-heavy food
system. It will also give you an immediate sense of connection with
the source of your food and a greater appreciation for anyone who
raises food.
Consider joining a “Community
Supported Agriculture” (CSA) farm. CSAs provide opportunities to
build direct relationships with local farmers. CSA “subscribers” pay
CSA farmers a lump sum (usually in advance of the growing season)
for a “share” of that year’s produce. Farmers provide their
subscribers with fresh portions of this share on a weekly basis.
Subscribers experience food at its healthiest and gain an awareness
of the joys and struggles that small, local farmers face.
Support your local farmers market.
Farmers markets will also bring you into direct contact with local
family farmers. As a shopper, you’ll be able to have a personal
conversation with those who raised your food, and you’ll be able to
determine whether their farming practices harmonize with your
values.
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Photo by Pete
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Support specialized retailers who
focus on local, organic, and creation-friendly products: co-ops,
natural food stores, and produce stands. These businesses often have
fewer ties to the agribusiness economy and maintain closer
connections to consumers, farmers, and land. If you live some
distance from a specialized retailer, consider stocking up or
joining with friends or congregation members to alternate group
shopping trips.
Most of us need to shop at larger
supermarkets at least from time to time. But we can still shop in
ways that help to remake essential food connections. For example,
you can look for “Eco-labels” (e.g., “organic”) to help match your
social and ecological standards with correlative farming practices.
Eco-labels help give a “face” to the people and lands behind our
foods.
All of these ideas can help us better
glimpse the hands and lands behind our daily bread, fish, or cans of
tomatoes. May you be blessed by what you see, and may your food
choices be a blessing to others.
Tanya Marcovna Barnett’s passion
for sustainable agriculture inspired her undergraduate studies in
biology and theology (Valpariaso University, Ind.), and then her
work as an agro-forestry volunteer for the Peace Corps in Niger,
West Africa. After completing her Masters of Divinity degree
(Vanderbilt Divinity School, Tenn.), she went to work with Earth
Ministry (Seattle, Wash.), where she advocates for greater earth
care and works with congregations to help cultivate it. Tanya, her
husband, and a local church helped open a farmers market in north
Seattle in 2001. She loves to garden, spend time with her family,
and can food for the winter.
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